How to spend 5-nights in Córdoba, Argentina

October 28, 2023

From the moment we landed in Córdoba capital, I felt at home. As a digital nomad originally from Colorado, Córdoba felt like a slice of nostalgia with its mountains, forests, streams, and historic mountain villages. 

But even before I drew the connection to my hometown, I knew I needed to visit this region. Córdoba is famous for offering an interesting mix of new and old. It was founded by a Spanish conquistador in 1573 and is home to one of the oldest universities in Argentina, meaning the capital city fills with young students and trendy establishments alongside 17th-century colonial Jesuit ruins. 

Plus, there are beautiful landscapes, outdoor activities, and — of course — Fernet. In fact, many people call Córdoba the “world Fernet capital.” 

Hiking and Fernet? Say no more. 

Church in La Cumbrecita, Cordoba, Argentina

While Córdoba may be less known to international tourists and digital nomads, I’m happy to report back and say that you don’t want to miss this incredible province. 

If you’re looking for the best things to see and do on your Córdoba trip, check out my recommended 5-night Córdoba itinerary — including La Cumbrecita and Villa General Belgrano. 


Day 1

📍 Destination: La Cumbrecita

🏨 Hotel: Hotel Las Cascadas

🏃🏻‍♀️ Activity: Drive to La Cumbrecita 

🥨 Meal: Dinner @ Bar Suizo 

Our flight arrived at 6 p.m. at Ingeniero Aeronáutico Ambrosio L.V. Taravella International Airport in Córdoba city. We picked up our Hertz rental car at the airport and set off for La Cumbrecita. 

La Cumbrecita is a charming town nestled in the Sierras Grandes mountain range. It was settled by Central European immigrants and maintains its quintessential alpine feel (at times a bit kitschy). With a commitment to eco-tourism, La Cumbrecita is also the only fully pedestrian town in Argentina. Surrounding the center, you’ll find miles of hiking trails, waterfalls, and forests. La Cumbrecita has become one of the most popular destinations in Córdoba for its beautiful scenery and tranquility.  


La Cumbrecita, Cordoba

I have to admit: I was very nervous to drive in Córdoba after witnessing the lack of rules on the road in Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital. The idea of approaching a roundabout that felt more like a free-for-all had my toes curling when I got behind the driver’s seat. 

I’m here to tell you that you can rest easy. Turns out, driving inside Córdoba province is easy. The roads are well maintained, people are generally respectful of other cars, and I found no confusing one-way roads or turn lanes. 

Back to the drive to La Cumbrecita. If you can, try to arrive in Córdoba capital a few hours before sunset so that you can enjoy the views on your drive down to La Cumbrecita. By the time we made it, the moon was high in the sky and we saw nothing more than the warm glow of lamps in hotel windows. After a casual dinner at Bar Suizo on the main street, we went to sleep anxious to see what awaited us at sunrise. 

Day 2

📍 Destination: La Cumbrecita

🏨 Hotel: Hotel Las Cascadas

🏃🏻‍♀️ Activity: Hike to Cerro Wank 

🥨 Meals: Lunch @ Prosit Beirhaus, dinner @ La Colina

Waking up in La Cumbrecita was straight out of a fairytale. Between the Swiss-style wooden chalets, decorative balconies, and flower-filled window boxes, I felt like Snow White walking out into a magical village. 

We started the day by hiking up to Cerro Wank, a popular lookout point with views of La Cumbrecita and the surrounding Calamuchita Valley. The walk is uphill for about 60 minutes until you reach the summit. Pack a snack and enjoy the views from the top. 

Cerro Wank, La Cumbrecita

After returning to town, we grabbed lunch at Prosit Beirhaus, a casual brewpub on the main street. Nearly every restaurant in La Cumbrecita serves the same style of German food — from schnitzel to spaetzle to goulash.

We then spent the afternoon exploring the town’s various shops and buying souvenirs. Make sure you try the locally-produced Fernet! It’s made in La Cumbrecita and is 100% natural. There’s a river that runs through the town, so I also recommend packing some mates and relaxing under the sun by the water. 

For dinner, we enjoyed a meal at La Colina and unanimously decided that it was the best food in La Cumbrecita. The restaurant is set on a hill with fantastic views of the mountains and a delicious menu. If you can, try to reserve a table next to the window.  

Day 3

📍 Destination: Villa General Belgrano

🏨 Hotel: Böden Hotel & Spa 

🏃🏻‍♀️ Activity: Hike to La Cascada Grande, drive to Villa General Belgrano

🥨 Meals: Lunch @ Helmut Bar, dinner @ El Taller

On our last day in La Cumbrecita, we hiked to La Cascada Grande, another popular trail that starts from the main street. It only takes around 45 minutes to reach the top and tends to fill with people, so I recommend getting an early start. You’ll follow a stream until you reach the town’s 14-meter-high waterfall. Very picturesque! 

Following the hike, we sat down for lunch at Helmut Bar, another German-inspired spot with a gorgeous patio and fantastic views. Make sure you stop by the ceramics and liquor store Wildermann after your meal. They sell locally produced gins and artisan plates, bowls, and mugs.

Helmut Bar, La Cumbrecita

From La Cumbrecita, we drove 45 minutes to Villa General Belgrano, our second stop on the trip. 

Villa General Belgrano was settled by German immigrants in the 1930s. To this day, it feels distinctly German with its Bavarian-style architecture, microbreweries, and pastry and chocolate shops. Every October, the town hosts an Oktoberfest festival that attracts tourists from around the country to drink beer, watch European-inspired shows, and enjoy concerts from popular Argentine rock bands. 

Upon arriving, we settled into our hotel and explored a bit of the downtown region before grabbing dinner. I recommend eating at El Taller, a great, centrally-located pizza joint. 

Day 4

📍 Destination: Villa General Belgrano

🏨 Hotel: Böden Hotel & Spa 

🏃🏻‍♀️ Activity: Hike to Cerro la Virgin, wine tasting @ Finca Vista Grande 

🥨 Meals: Lunch @ Finca Vista Grande, dinner @ Böden Restaurant  

We started our day with a hike up to Cerro la Virgin to enjoy 360-degree views of the Calamuchita Valley and Villa General Belgrano. The hike takes around 90 minutes and is uphill until you reach the summit. Make sure you pack plenty of water and sunscreen as the trail offers little shade. 

Cerro Virgin, Villa General Belgrano

In the afternoon, we headed to Finca Vista Grande, an Instagram-worthy vineyard just a short drive from town. With four hectares of vineyards, they produce quality dry wines that pair perfectly with a charcuterie board and empanadas. 

You can reserve a tour of the vineyard followed by lunch with a wine flight. Make sure you save time to walk around the vineyard and take photos. 

Finca Vista Grande, Villa General Belgrano

For dinner, we enjoyed an incredible meal at the Böden Restaurant, another picture-perfect spot nestled in the valley. This Scandinavian-style resort is owned by AKEN Hotels & Resorts, an international brand specializing in high-end, luxury hotels. From the spa treatments to the large outdoor patio to the tennis courts, you could easily spend an entire day enjoying Böden’s amenities. 

Day 5

📍 Destination: Villa General Belgrano

🏨 Hotel: Böden Hotel & Spa 

🏃🏻‍♀️ Activity: Explore Los Reartes 

🥨 Meals: Lunch @ Lo de Acevedo, dinner @ El Pather

On our last day in Villa General Belgrano, we headed to Los Reartes, a small town just a 20-minute drive away. It’s a quiet and cute spot with colonial buildings and old adobe houses. Take some time to walk around the main street and pop inside the shops. 

You’ll find an old pulpería, Don Segundo Sombra, that dates back to 1930 and was the first general store in the area. You can stop in for lunch, or continue on to Lo de Acevado, a restaurant set in the oldest home in Los Reartes. Occasionally, they put on live folk music shows. 

In the afternoon, I recommend relaxing by the river that runs through Los Reartes and enjoying some mates under the sun. 

For your final dinner, check out El Pather, a local Armenian restaurant. By this point, you’ll enjoy the break from the region’s standard German menus!   

Day 6

📍 Destination: Home

🏃🏻‍♀️ Activity: Drive to airport 

After five nights in Córdoba, we drove back to the capital city to catch our flight home to Buenos Aires. The overwhelming consensus at the end of the trip was “We need to see more of this province!

With its various mountain ranges, rivers, forests, and historic towns, Córdoba caters to various types of travelers and multiple getaways. Next time, we’ll be sure to head north of the capital city and explore a new side of the province. 

Save this post for your next trip to Córdoba. Happy travels!

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